Sunday, 9 May 2010

Day 16: Budapest

Writing this sat in an internet cafe in downtown Budapest. When we got in yesterday evening, tired hungry and getting pretty sick of cycling we sat down and over a couple of beers had a good look at the route ahead and formed a plan for the next week.

Basically we're short of time, and also in all honesty energy to complete the push for the Black Sea before we have to fly back next Saturday (Icelandic volcano permitting). We're not unhappy that we're not going to make it, as we had only ever put together this trip in terms of a vague plan, and it became apparent that our average speed on our touring bikes, fully laden, is not in the realms that would be needed to cover the 100miles + that we would have had to knock out every day. A fair number of days when we've only stopped cycling well after the suns gone down is testament to that.

Also our sickness enforced day in Vienna opened our eyes somewhat to the world around us and we didnt want to pass the opportunity up to take a good look around Budapest as well so we're stopping here for a day, then we've lined up a solid 5 days cycling to arrive at Bucharest on Friday evening totally exhausted and hopefully satisfied that we've put all we could into this trip. However because of the huge diastance still between us and Bucharest we'll be getting a train on Tuesday shortly after crossing into Romania and getting off at the foot of the Carpathaian mountains for the last three days.

So the plan is today in Budapest, tomorrow we cycle to Szeged near the border, Tuesday a short(er) ride into Romania to a town called Arad, where we pick up (hopefuly we dont miss!) an afternoon train to Sibiu, and then take it to the mountains for three days.

The Black Sea, our original aim when we set out 2 weeks ago is going to prove to be beyond us sadly. We think given one more week, and if we hadnt have been struck down with sickness in the middle of last week, it would have all proved possible. A note for the next time perhaps, but right now we're happy, and we certainly have some serious cycling ahead of us.

This afternoon, sightseeing in Budapest and a spot of Premier league football in the pub. Back on the bike tomorrow for the last push...

I'll put some photos up next time Im on the blog. It takes ages (about 2 hours for the 20 odd ive put up today) so it might have to wait until Bucharest next Friday. Not sure Wifi will be too abundant in the Romanian countryside!

From Budapest,
Phil

Day 15: Gyor to Budapest

Photos: Enjoying a bit of sunshine over lunch; Budapest parliament; Our last crossing of the Danube (Ive counted about 25, but half of those were on the 1st day!)






A hard days cycling, we both rose from the tent early and set off at a good lick but after lunch we'd completely run out of steam, and decided to take a 'short cut' into Budapest by following the road instead of the river. Three huge hills later we reckon we would have gone the other way but we eventually crawled into town and found a pub.

Today was the hardest day we've had, mostly physcologically, as the headwind was up in our faces and our legs we're tired but the road was mainly good and we didnt really have that far to go (about 80 miles total). So it was painful as the kms ticked away excruciatingly slowly (they have markers every km here, i really wish they didnt).

the bikes are also in need of some TLC. With the rain we had and the hammering theyve taken from endless bumps and kerbs on the stupid cycle paths here they arent sounding too clever. mine starting skipping gears on the biggest hill of the day, my personal lowlight of a forgettable day in the saddle.

Day 14: Vienna to Gyor, Hungary

Photos: Gyor town hall, very pretty; few shots of various border crossings (they seemed to have given up on the Hungarian one post iron curtain, not even a sign to speak of); A stunning bike path in an Austrian national park, and sun sun sun to cheer us up after a week of rain; Reunited with our bikes and the Danubem, spirits were good before we got totally lost in the middle of a maze of waterways











Sicknote Ibbotson being well enough to continue, we had a brilliant day cycling in 3 different countries, with the sun on our backs all day. 95 miles in total, so we were pretty knackered by the time we arrived in Gyors premier campsite, but all in all a very succesful day. What a difference a bit of sun makes. (and 2 days rest!)

Now onwards to Budapest..

Day 13: Vienna

Photo: Vienna, sun, icecream etc. Awesome day. That was the first of various ice cream stops.












We got up early doors to see how Luke was feeling post stomach bug, but having not really eaten anything all day the day before, he wasnt up to getting in the saddle. Its somewhat of a shame that we werent able to go the whole way on bikes but theres no planning for illness in camp so we just had to make a decision. Stay in Linz and wait until we're ready to roll again, or get on towards Vienna by other means.

We decided on the latter, Linz being a bit dull and conscious of the clock ticking until our flights back, but Bucharest still being a serious way off. We got to the Ferry (journey time 10 hours) for the morning departure, but with no activity on the quay, we eventually found a boat captain who informed us there were no ferries until Saturday. (This was evidently explained in the ferry brochure, and despite his sickness and lack of German (nb 1 year at school) Luke was able to point out exactly where it said SATURDAYS ONLY in the timetable, and that he had been wondering what the significance of that was). This obviously being a divine test of ones character I crossed the street, metaphorically and physically, and trudged to the train station. We arrived at 9.32. Train to Vienna run every hour departing at 31 minutes past the hour. Luke promplty sat down. I went and bought us newspapers and provisons.

We found a cheap hostel in Vienna, dumped our gear and wandered about. Lovely place, but museums should be free to the public. We balked at the 10 euro they were asking to get in everywhere, and lay about on the lawn reading about Vienna history in the guidebook i bought. We got promptly kicked off by the lawn police (both with sidearms), and went to the pub. Smashing day out.

Day 12: Sickness and the Ferry to Linz

Photos: The ferry; Luke feeling sorry for himself; Linz town sqaure





Tuesday evening in Ascach myself and Luke ate, which there is no dispute about, excatly the same thing. We were recommened by the hot waitress two Austrian dishes, and being in no position to argue, we got them both, and a pizza and two side salads. and three beers. each. We split all the food 50:50. And whilst i had a good sleep (disturbed only very slighty by some unwordly noises ruminating from the bathroom which I encorporated into my dream (I won the world cup again)), Luke spent the entire night talking to God on the great white telephone, driving the porcelain bus, throwing up, vomming etc etc. Readers are therefore invited to conject whether my stronger constitution, or Lukes lower personal hygiene were the deciding factor.

We didnt go cycling. I went and got provisions (yakult, water, fruit juice and bananas for Luke, 3 different types of cookies for me), and we decided the best bet was to get the ferry round the corner to Linz (25km up river), and see how we were for the next day.

Day 11: Straubing, Germany to Ascach, Austria

Photos: The German Austrian border (no sign again, very annoying); Our river crossing (we tried to bribe him to take us down river instead of just across it, but he had spent the past 20 years driving his boat from one side of the river to the other, and the thought of going somewhere else clearly shocked and appalled him)






A splendid morning, our best start ever, we were in Passau and fixing bikes and doing blogs by 11.30 am. Unfortuntately, the bike took ages to fix so we didnt get away till 4.30 with another 50 miles to Linz. And it had started raining. Heavily.

We pushed through to a place called Ascach, just a bit short of Linz, but it wasnt easy. The legs get tired by mid afternoon these days and anything even resemlbing a hill at that time of day can completely destroy us. Cold and rain into the recipe dont exactly make for the most pleasant cycling. A shame because we both agreed the Danube is stunning at this point, were the the flat plains and farmland of Germany have given way to sharp valley sides and parkland in Austria. Great smooth surface here as well on the bike paths. Just need some more energy from somewhere!

Tuesday, 4 May 2010

Day 2,3,4 Dover to Arras to Rozoy-sur-Serre to Troyon

Just thought Id write this down as we're forgetting already.
Think the brain has a way of selectively forgetting all the pain.

Day 10: Neuburg to Straubing

Photos: The Danube, getting fairly full after 4 days rain which we've had the pleasure of sharing; Luke fixing his bike; Salvation in the form of a German bike shop, which we caught just in time.




Finally we got up to a morning without the perpetual steady drizzle we've come to know and love in Southern Germany. Still overcast but good riding conditions with little wind.
We were making good progress until about 20miles in Luke got a puncture. The rear tyre was incredicbly worn down and sadly our attempts to fix it on the side or the road only put pinch punctures in two brand new inner tubes. Just when the point of true despair was about to be reached, a German woman pulled up in a sparkling Audi 4x4 and insisted on giving Luke and his disabled bicycle a lift 5km into the town of Inglostadt. I cycled alongside, struggling to keep up while Luke sat in the passenger seat grinning.
The bike shop was closing for a 2 hour lunch so we had to make do with buying the parts and fitting them ourselves, but after a bit of a battle with getting the new tyre on we were up and running, albeit exceptionally behind schedule, again.
Missed out the city of Regensburg by diverting to the south, and stopped in a hotel in Straubing for the night, 50 miles from Passau and the Austrian border. Still just about on course for Budapest on Friday.

From Passau, Germanz (where y and z are the wrong waz round on the kezboard)
Phil

Day 9: Ulm to Neuburg

Photo: A true reflection of our time in Germany. Cold, wet, and on a cycle path that started out good and turned into a dirt track. Roll on austria.

While this is a few days after the fact, i've just read Carr's account of my navigation out of strasbourg and feel obliged to offer a response. I will start my defence thus: As Mr Carr entered a shop to buy water, i stood perusing a map of strasbourg to best effect our exit from the city. Committing to memory the requisite number of lefts, rights, junctions and bridges we had had to take i settled upon a route which would take us onto the Canal du Rhone et Rhine, our route to the next destination. I will designate this route out of the city "the Way". Unfortunately as we set out from the centre of Strasbourg we were somewhat stuck in the central traffic system and had to wait at a number of traffic lights. Of course, Mr Carr, the man-puppy that he is, soon got distracted while waiting for the aforementioned traffic lights to turn green. So, rather than follow the direct, planned route, he uttered something along the lines of "thAt cyclist over there looks like they know what they are doing, let's go that way" and set off. At this point we were no longer going "the Way" and instead spent a considerable amount of time re-consulting the map to see which of the numerous side roads Mr Carr had chosen to scamper down. Anyhow, the delays experienced whilst exiting Strasbourg were of entirely Mr Carr's own making and he was lucky he had someone with him who could read a map.
Well, now that is off my chest I can get back to today's subject, leaving Ulm. This started as any other day we have had in deutchland, another day of rain. While not strictly true, it just feels that way at the moment. Staring out of the window in the morning waiting for the rain to lessen ended with a call from hotel reception telling us it was getting close to lunchtime and it was time to check out. So, we clambered back into our slightly damp cycling gear and set out into the water strewn streets of Ulm.
Again we found it both easier going and more direct to stay on the road than follow the Danube cycle path however this does result in a lot less interesting scenery - either the featureless road ahead or another man's lycra clad arse, depending on which one of us is leading at the time.

However, we did find that riding single file in this fashion not only fulfilling our quota of disturbing images but also resulted in the trailing cyclist being constantly drenched by the rear tyre of the person in front. So we soon switched to a tactic of using the fairly wide cycle path on open stretches and only nipping onto the road when going through villages/towns as it was at these points that the cycle
paths tend to take on their most random and frustrating courses. This went without a hitch until we were leaving one particular town when a red van driver took particular exception to us using the road when he obviously felt that there was a perfectly usable cycle path available somewhere in the vicinity. This displeasure went to such length that once he had passed us he felt the need to pull over and shout german at us as we went past. The fact that he was red-faced, rotund, bearded
and ponytailed did not help us take him at all seriously. Anyway once he had said his piece he was on his way once more, duty fulfilled.
Eventually we found ourselves in Neuberg and have managed to find a nice hotel which served a belting mixed grill. Duly stuffed I'm now going to bed

Luke

Sunday, 2 May 2010

Day 8: Donau... to Ulm

Photos: Danube with fountain; Luke ticking the miles off in the rain; Ulm cathedral, clearly not very tall; The end of a lond day in the rain, smiles as we'd still managed 100miles; Lunch of bread cheese and sausages in a barn; Our refuge in Germany, a warm service station






The day started out as promising. Forecast to rain yet it seemed to be holding back as we set out from donaueschingen along the cycle track that followed the river. Early progress was good as the tarmac path offered a smooth surface on which it was possible to motor on at a decent speed. Even the onset of some slight drizzle did little to dampen spirits as we had our first chance to don our waterproof
apparrel.
Pro lems started to arise as the valley narrowed and the rover began to meander considerably between the steep sides. We found ourselves constantly doubling back on ourselves with the river's course. Also at this point it seemed Tarmac ran out as we were introduced to the gravel surface which we found co era large sections of the cycle track. This caused our speed to drop considably and we were forced to switch to the road to take the more direct route. Despite a few horns from motoroists not understanding of our situation we smashed through the rest of the day, with the rain coming harder and harder and made it all the wAy to Ulm, much further than we had planned at the start of that looked likely half way through.
One of the pleasures if road cycling in hermnay we've discovered are service stations, where an alarming number of people seem to go for a few beers. We're more into the wArmth, dryness, food and toiletsthat they offer and we seem to have settled into a pattern of taking all our breaks in them, much better than the barn or the underpass which was the best we could do on the damn cycle path in the morning.
Ulm's a nice city, one the largest we've been in for a few days. It's got a cathedral with the tallest spire in Europe apparently, but I stood next to it and I'm not sure it's bigger than the church of Salisbury. Got a photo, will attach when we can connect the camera..

Next stop is regensburg. Maybe. Quite a long way may be a day or two, but the Austrian border is only a day behind that which is the next big milestone.

From ulm, germany
Luke (finished by phil cos luke needed to take a dump)

Day 7: Freiburg to Donaueschingen

Photos: Us ready for action before the big day of climbing; A giant hairpin, the road here climbed about 200m in the space of a couple of km; A massive hairpin, the road continues up to the right; A photo from the summit, 918m according to the Satnav, the valley we'd climbed out of to the rear of the shot; Us by the start of the river; Luke in the hotel room, efficent no-frills decor. Our first night apart in more than a week tho :(










A brutal day, climbing pretty much the whole way. Started late,
weather was overcast, a nice change from baking heat of the last few days in France.
Again we started off trying to follow the offical german cycle paths but after being sent from pavement to gravel track to bus lane to cul de sac we got pissed off and joined the main road, much to the apparent consternation of a number of car drivers who seem to think it's ridiculous that anyone would want to cycle on a road when there's a perfectly good pAvement next to it.

The road started to steepen after 10 miles as se climbed I to the valley and after 20 we we're blowing, bottom gear ad just grinding out the meters as the road started switching back on itself. Our secret weapon, a box of cliff shot blocks, basically super charged wine gums filled win caffeine, sugar and electolytes cMe in very handy and eventually, after hours of hard slog the road started to flatten off, and unbelievably roll down hill as we got into the top of the valley. A bit disappointing as we hadn't planned on multiple hills but the rest of the route was along sweeping hills in the roof of the german alps, sometimes getting far too quick for our unstable rides (I topped out at 40mph at one point) punctuated by some more sharp ascents.
We reached Donau... at about 4 in the afternoon and went straight to the source of the dAnube (the confluence of two little rivers) for photos. Everywhere to eat wAs closed it being the middle of the afternoon so we sat on a bench inthe rain eating salami and bread which I had a lot of trouble sourcing from a butchers where noone
spoke english and my protestations that I didn't care which of the 13 different kinds of salami they had I just wanted lots of it were only met with crescendo of german coming back at me. Next chance I'll get I'd better get a phrasebook. Luke, who studied german for a whole year at school claims not to speak any at all, much like his french which I noted he avoided using for a whole week in france. And he even had a gcse in that. So much for grammAr school educations.

As it had by that point stArted pissing down we sacked off any more cycling and booked into the cheapest hotel in town. The decor hadn't been changed since the fifties at least (they even had a wireless in the sitting room), but warm showers and comfy beds are alwYs a blessing to the cold and hungry cyclist so we settled in and went out for a few steins to celebrate the first stage of our journey being complete.

A consult over the next stage and we've set upon Budapest on one week as the next target. 700 miles approx so we'll be bumping our average up significantly but as we're now (hopefully) cycling much more on the flat we should start to make good time.

From donau..., Germany
Phil