Writing this sat in an internet cafe in downtown Budapest. When we got in yesterday evening, tired hungry and getting pretty sick of cycling we sat down and over a couple of beers had a good look at the route ahead and formed a plan for the next week.
Basically we're short of time, and also in all honesty energy to complete the push for the Black Sea before we have to fly back next Saturday (Icelandic volcano permitting). We're not unhappy that we're not going to make it, as we had only ever put together this trip in terms of a vague plan, and it became apparent that our average speed on our touring bikes, fully laden, is not in the realms that would be needed to cover the 100miles + that we would have had to knock out every day. A fair number of days when we've only stopped cycling well after the suns gone down is testament to that.
Also our sickness enforced day in Vienna opened our eyes somewhat to the world around us and we didnt want to pass the opportunity up to take a good look around Budapest as well so we're stopping here for a day, then we've lined up a solid 5 days cycling to arrive at Bucharest on Friday evening totally exhausted and hopefully satisfied that we've put all we could into this trip. However because of the huge diastance still between us and Bucharest we'll be getting a train on Tuesday shortly after crossing into Romania and getting off at the foot of the Carpathaian mountains for the last three days.
So the plan is today in Budapest, tomorrow we cycle to Szeged near the border, Tuesday a short(er) ride into Romania to a town called Arad, where we pick up (hopefuly we dont miss!) an afternoon train to Sibiu, and then take it to the mountains for three days.
The Black Sea, our original aim when we set out 2 weeks ago is going to prove to be beyond us sadly. We think given one more week, and if we hadnt have been struck down with sickness in the middle of last week, it would have all proved possible. A note for the next time perhaps, but right now we're happy, and we certainly have some serious cycling ahead of us.
This afternoon, sightseeing in Budapest and a spot of Premier league football in the pub. Back on the bike tomorrow for the last push...
I'll put some photos up next time Im on the blog. It takes ages (about 2 hours for the 20 odd ive put up today) so it might have to wait until Bucharest next Friday. Not sure Wifi will be too abundant in the Romanian countryside!
From Budapest,
Phil
Sunday, 9 May 2010
Day 15: Gyor to Budapest
Photos: Enjoying a bit of sunshine over lunch; Budapest parliament; Our last crossing of the Danube (Ive counted about 25, but half of those were on the 1st day!)
A hard days cycling, we both rose from the tent early and set off at a good lick but after lunch we'd completely run out of steam, and decided to take a 'short cut' into Budapest by following the road instead of the river. Three huge hills later we reckon we would have gone the other way but we eventually crawled into town and found a pub.
Today was the hardest day we've had, mostly physcologically, as the headwind was up in our faces and our legs we're tired but the road was mainly good and we didnt really have that far to go (about 80 miles total). So it was painful as the kms ticked away excruciatingly slowly (they have markers every km here, i really wish they didnt).
the bikes are also in need of some TLC. With the rain we had and the hammering theyve taken from endless bumps and kerbs on the stupid cycle paths here they arent sounding too clever. mine starting skipping gears on the biggest hill of the day, my personal lowlight of a forgettable day in the saddle.
A hard days cycling, we both rose from the tent early and set off at a good lick but after lunch we'd completely run out of steam, and decided to take a 'short cut' into Budapest by following the road instead of the river. Three huge hills later we reckon we would have gone the other way but we eventually crawled into town and found a pub.
Today was the hardest day we've had, mostly physcologically, as the headwind was up in our faces and our legs we're tired but the road was mainly good and we didnt really have that far to go (about 80 miles total). So it was painful as the kms ticked away excruciatingly slowly (they have markers every km here, i really wish they didnt).
the bikes are also in need of some TLC. With the rain we had and the hammering theyve taken from endless bumps and kerbs on the stupid cycle paths here they arent sounding too clever. mine starting skipping gears on the biggest hill of the day, my personal lowlight of a forgettable day in the saddle.
Day 14: Vienna to Gyor, Hungary
Photos: Gyor town hall, very pretty; few shots of various border crossings (they seemed to have given up on the Hungarian one post iron curtain, not even a sign to speak of); A stunning bike path in an Austrian national park, and sun sun sun to cheer us up after a week of rain; Reunited with our bikes and the Danubem, spirits were good before we got totally lost in the middle of a maze of waterways
Sicknote Ibbotson being well enough to continue, we had a brilliant day cycling in 3 different countries, with the sun on our backs all day. 95 miles in total, so we were pretty knackered by the time we arrived in Gyors premier campsite, but all in all a very succesful day. What a difference a bit of sun makes. (and 2 days rest!)
Now onwards to Budapest..
Sicknote Ibbotson being well enough to continue, we had a brilliant day cycling in 3 different countries, with the sun on our backs all day. 95 miles in total, so we were pretty knackered by the time we arrived in Gyors premier campsite, but all in all a very succesful day. What a difference a bit of sun makes. (and 2 days rest!)
Now onwards to Budapest..
Day 13: Vienna
Photo: Vienna, sun, icecream etc. Awesome day. That was the first of various ice cream stops.
We got up early doors to see how Luke was feeling post stomach bug, but having not really eaten anything all day the day before, he wasnt up to getting in the saddle. Its somewhat of a shame that we werent able to go the whole way on bikes but theres no planning for illness in camp so we just had to make a decision. Stay in Linz and wait until we're ready to roll again, or get on towards Vienna by other means.
We decided on the latter, Linz being a bit dull and conscious of the clock ticking until our flights back, but Bucharest still being a serious way off. We got to the Ferry (journey time 10 hours) for the morning departure, but with no activity on the quay, we eventually found a boat captain who informed us there were no ferries until Saturday. (This was evidently explained in the ferry brochure, and despite his sickness and lack of German (nb 1 year at school) Luke was able to point out exactly where it said SATURDAYS ONLY in the timetable, and that he had been wondering what the significance of that was). This obviously being a divine test of ones character I crossed the street, metaphorically and physically, and trudged to the train station. We arrived at 9.32. Train to Vienna run every hour departing at 31 minutes past the hour. Luke promplty sat down. I went and bought us newspapers and provisons.
We found a cheap hostel in Vienna, dumped our gear and wandered about. Lovely place, but museums should be free to the public. We balked at the 10 euro they were asking to get in everywhere, and lay about on the lawn reading about Vienna history in the guidebook i bought. We got promptly kicked off by the lawn police (both with sidearms), and went to the pub. Smashing day out.
We got up early doors to see how Luke was feeling post stomach bug, but having not really eaten anything all day the day before, he wasnt up to getting in the saddle. Its somewhat of a shame that we werent able to go the whole way on bikes but theres no planning for illness in camp so we just had to make a decision. Stay in Linz and wait until we're ready to roll again, or get on towards Vienna by other means.
We decided on the latter, Linz being a bit dull and conscious of the clock ticking until our flights back, but Bucharest still being a serious way off. We got to the Ferry (journey time 10 hours) for the morning departure, but with no activity on the quay, we eventually found a boat captain who informed us there were no ferries until Saturday. (This was evidently explained in the ferry brochure, and despite his sickness and lack of German (nb 1 year at school) Luke was able to point out exactly where it said SATURDAYS ONLY in the timetable, and that he had been wondering what the significance of that was). This obviously being a divine test of ones character I crossed the street, metaphorically and physically, and trudged to the train station. We arrived at 9.32. Train to Vienna run every hour departing at 31 minutes past the hour. Luke promplty sat down. I went and bought us newspapers and provisons.
We found a cheap hostel in Vienna, dumped our gear and wandered about. Lovely place, but museums should be free to the public. We balked at the 10 euro they were asking to get in everywhere, and lay about on the lawn reading about Vienna history in the guidebook i bought. We got promptly kicked off by the lawn police (both with sidearms), and went to the pub. Smashing day out.
Day 12: Sickness and the Ferry to Linz
Photos: The ferry; Luke feeling sorry for himself; Linz town sqaure
Tuesday evening in Ascach myself and Luke ate, which there is no dispute about, excatly the same thing. We were recommened by the hot waitress two Austrian dishes, and being in no position to argue, we got them both, and a pizza and two side salads. and three beers. each. We split all the food 50:50. And whilst i had a good sleep (disturbed only very slighty by some unwordly noises ruminating from the bathroom which I encorporated into my dream (I won the world cup again)), Luke spent the entire night talking to God on the great white telephone, driving the porcelain bus, throwing up, vomming etc etc. Readers are therefore invited to conject whether my stronger constitution, or Lukes lower personal hygiene were the deciding factor.
We didnt go cycling. I went and got provisions (yakult, water, fruit juice and bananas for Luke, 3 different types of cookies for me), and we decided the best bet was to get the ferry round the corner to Linz (25km up river), and see how we were for the next day.
Tuesday evening in Ascach myself and Luke ate, which there is no dispute about, excatly the same thing. We were recommened by the hot waitress two Austrian dishes, and being in no position to argue, we got them both, and a pizza and two side salads. and three beers. each. We split all the food 50:50. And whilst i had a good sleep (disturbed only very slighty by some unwordly noises ruminating from the bathroom which I encorporated into my dream (I won the world cup again)), Luke spent the entire night talking to God on the great white telephone, driving the porcelain bus, throwing up, vomming etc etc. Readers are therefore invited to conject whether my stronger constitution, or Lukes lower personal hygiene were the deciding factor.
We didnt go cycling. I went and got provisions (yakult, water, fruit juice and bananas for Luke, 3 different types of cookies for me), and we decided the best bet was to get the ferry round the corner to Linz (25km up river), and see how we were for the next day.
Day 11: Straubing, Germany to Ascach, Austria
Photos: The German Austrian border (no sign again, very annoying); Our river crossing (we tried to bribe him to take us down river instead of just across it, but he had spent the past 20 years driving his boat from one side of the river to the other, and the thought of going somewhere else clearly shocked and appalled him)
A splendid morning, our best start ever, we were in Passau and fixing bikes and doing blogs by 11.30 am. Unfortuntately, the bike took ages to fix so we didnt get away till 4.30 with another 50 miles to Linz. And it had started raining. Heavily.
We pushed through to a place called Ascach, just a bit short of Linz, but it wasnt easy. The legs get tired by mid afternoon these days and anything even resemlbing a hill at that time of day can completely destroy us. Cold and rain into the recipe dont exactly make for the most pleasant cycling. A shame because we both agreed the Danube is stunning at this point, were the the flat plains and farmland of Germany have given way to sharp valley sides and parkland in Austria. Great smooth surface here as well on the bike paths. Just need some more energy from somewhere!
A splendid morning, our best start ever, we were in Passau and fixing bikes and doing blogs by 11.30 am. Unfortuntately, the bike took ages to fix so we didnt get away till 4.30 with another 50 miles to Linz. And it had started raining. Heavily.
We pushed through to a place called Ascach, just a bit short of Linz, but it wasnt easy. The legs get tired by mid afternoon these days and anything even resemlbing a hill at that time of day can completely destroy us. Cold and rain into the recipe dont exactly make for the most pleasant cycling. A shame because we both agreed the Danube is stunning at this point, were the the flat plains and farmland of Germany have given way to sharp valley sides and parkland in Austria. Great smooth surface here as well on the bike paths. Just need some more energy from somewhere!
Tuesday, 4 May 2010
Day 2,3,4 Dover to Arras to Rozoy-sur-Serre to Troyon
Just thought Id write this down as we're forgetting already.
Think the brain has a way of selectively forgetting all the pain.
Think the brain has a way of selectively forgetting all the pain.
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